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Using mulch is one of the best things you can do to help conserve water in the landscape while also improving your soil. Organic mulch (anything that was once a plant) improves your soil as it decomposes. As the mulch decays, it releases nutrients for the plants to use. It also brings the pH of the soil closer to neutral while also improving the structure of the soil. Mulch helps to prevent water loss from your soil by providing protection from the sun’s heat. By keeping the soil cooler, water does not evaporate as quickly as it would if the soil were allowed to receive direct sunlight. Mulch helps to protect the root zone of plants by insulating the soil from both hot and cold weather – it protects the plant roots from the heat of the sun, and it also protects them from cold temperatures. Mulch makes it easier for water to seep into the soil and also lessens the amount of soil that gets washed or blown away during storms. Another great benefit of mulch is that it smothers out weeds. Mulching landscape areas helps plants to grow faster because they do not have to compete with grass or weeds for the water and nutrients they need. It also gives a finished appearance to the landscape.

Mulch 1 Yard P/U 1/2 Yard
Red Colored$30.00$18.00
Pine Bark$44.00$26.00
Kiddie Cushion$44.00$26.00
Premium Hardwood$30.00$18.00
Black Midnight$30.00$18.00

Soil and Sand

Quality soil is the basis for quality landscapes. The growth rate, health, and visual appearance of landscape plants are directly related to soil quality. The old cliche “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” applies to acquiring quality topsoil. Make a concerted effort to acquire high-quality soil, even if it costs more initially. It will be less expensive in the long term than treating recurring problems and having to replace landscape plants that fail due to poor soil conditions. Our Flower Bed Mix contains Mushroom Compost, Aged Horse Manure, Humus, and Mason Sand. This is a looser mix for roses and other flowers. Our Garden Mix contains 3 parts of topsoil and 1 part of the following Humus, Aged Horse Manure, and Mushroom Compost. This is a heavier, thicker mix geared towards trees, shrubs, and vegetables. Adding the extra lawn soil allows us to raise the center of the lawn to ensure excellent drainage. Mushroom Compost is a naturally rich organic soil fertilizer for use in all outdoor gardens and flower beds or as a topdress humus for moisture retention. Mushroom Compost is a blend of chicken manure and alfalfa hay. Mushroom Compost should be applied and worked into existing soil in late fall or early spring prior to planting but may be used as a topdress mulch between garden rows for better moisture retention and plant nutrition during the growing season.

Top view. Farmer holding soil in hands.  The researchers check the quality of the soil.  Agriculture, gardening or ecology concept layout , copy space.
Soil Mixes 1 Yard P/U 1/2 Yard
Flowerbed Mix$34.00$20.00
Garden Mix$34.00$20.00
Rose Soil$60.00$35.00
Sand 1 Yard P/U 1/2 Yard
Bank Sand$22.00 (picked up) or $26.00 (Delivered)$16.00
Masonary Sand$54.00$32.00
Sharp Sand$58.00$34.00
Fill Dirt 1 Yard P/U 1/2 Yard
Top Soil$40.00$24.00
Lawn Soil$34.00$20.00
Fertilizer 1 Yard P/U 1/2 Yard
Mushroom Compost$60.00$35.00

Rock and Gravel

Mulch X-Press has a large selection of landscaping and building stone. Nothing dresses up a tired or boring landscape as easily as a new rock wall edging your beds or a pathway of the beautiful graver. We supply rock and gravel that can be used for anything from rock gardens to drainage. Our rock experts will help you decide which rock or gravel will be best for your project. Rocks native to your area will look natural and will be the easiest to obtain. Large rocks with irregular shapes look interesting in the rock garden but keep in mind that you’ll need smaller rocks, too.For driveways, paths, parking areas, utility areas, weed, fire control, and a variety of other uses, crushed rock can be an ideal solution. It’s durable, virtually maintenance-free, reasonably priced, and available in a variety of colors and sizes for different applications. While just about any crushed rock can be used for just about any application, some rocks are better choices than others for certain uses. For example, some rock packs down better than others, making it a better choice for roads. Others are smooth and rounded, and while they don’t pack as well, they’re softer underfoot and may be a better choice for some walkways and dog runs. You’ll also find some regional differences as well – some areas may carry more river rock than others, more lava rock, or different grades and sizes of crushed rock.Some of the more common rocks and their applications include River Rock. River rocks are rounded and smooth in appearance, with no sharp or pointed edges. Their rounded shape causes them to roll slightly underfoot, and they don’t pack down hard against one another, but they drain water very well and are more attractive than some other types of crushed rock. Common size ranges, which indicate the average diameter of the rock, include 3/8 inch-1/2 inch, also called pea gravel; 1/2 inch-1 inch; and 1 1/2 inch-2 1/2 inch. Larger sizes are also available. Common uses include paths, landscaping, and drainage areas. River rock is also sometimes used for animal areas and driveways. Pea gravel is a common additive in decorative exposed aggregate concrete, and the larger river rock is common for use in septic drain fields.

Rocks and Gravel 1 Yard – P/U 1/2 Yard
1 1/2 River Rock Minus$88.00$50.00
1 1/2 White Rock Minus$88.00$50.00
3/8″ Pea Gravel$88.00$50.00
2-4″ Bull Rock$88.00$50.00
Crushed Granite$110.00$65.00
Limestone Base$88.00$50.00
Concrete Base$84.00$48.00
Black Star$235.00$130.00
Moss Rock$.18/lb
Flagstone Rock$.21/lb

Grass and Bagged Materials

Don’t despair if you’ve just moved into a new home that has compacted subsoil where a front lawn should be or if your old lawn looks like a worn-out rug. The time and effort required to create a lush lawn are probably less than you think. How? By laying sod.

Speed, Selection, and Easy Maintenance: Sod’s big advantage over seed is speed. From soil preparation to the final layout, it’s possible to install a modest-sized sod lawn in one day. That’s an appealing thought: dust and weeds in the morning and a lush lawn in the evening!

Sure Selection: When you buy sod from Mulch X-Press, you are guaranteed to get grass that grows well in your area.

Convenience: You can lay sod at almost any time of year, even when the ground is slightly frozen or during the heat of summer (although you’ll need to water more in summer). In comparison, only spring and fall offer sufficiently favorable conditions for sowing most seed lawns, although late spring is good for seeding heat-lovers such as Bermuda and buffalo grasses.

Smooth Start: Yes, you’ll have to baby a new sod lawn for a couple of weeks, but that’s far less time and effort than for a seeded lawn. Until new sod establishes roots in the soil, it needs watering twice a day, and sometimes more often, during hot weather. In comparison, keeping a newly seeded lawn moist may require a dozen waterings a day.

Fewer Weeds: New sod lawns suffer only slightly from weed invasions. Most soils contain many weed seeds that are just waiting for the opportunity to grow, and right after you prepare and amend the soil, sow grass seed, and provide water, weed-growth conditions are perfect. Unless you’ve taken steps to eliminate or reduce weed seeds in the soil before planting, weeds may overrun a seeded lawn.

We Carry San Augustine, Palmetto, Bermuda, and Empire Zoysia. Helpful Hints

Best Practices

Install the Sod Immediately and Begin Watering! Do Not Wait Until the Next Day. Sod is perishable and must not be allowed to remain on the pallet. Proper watering is essential to the establishment of your new sod. During the first week, keep the sod and soil beneath completely soaked-it is almost impossible to over-water during this period. As a general guide, water once a day during this critical first week. Watering times should be approximately 2-2.5 hours. These numbers may need to be increased during very hot weather.* If water starts to puddle, cut back a bit on watering time. During the second week, reduce watering to 1 hour a day, gradually allowing the soil to the firm. This will make it possible for you to mow for the first time toward the end of week two. After three weeks, your sod should be established, and you may cut back to a normal watering routine which for the Houston area is once every two to three weeks during the spring and summer. *Frequency and length of watering will depend on how warm, how windy, and how rapidly the lawn dries out following each watering. Remember, the goal during week one is to keep the sod and the soil beneath moist all of the time.Helpful Hints on Installation Like any living plant that has been cut out of the ground, put on a truck, driven down a freeway – and replanted at your location, it must now devote its energies to re-establishing itself with new root growth. It needs water to do this-please reread the watering instructions above.

  • Apply a fertilizer, like 13-13-13, to the ground before (or after) laying the sod at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet.
  • Make sure that your sprinkler system gives you head-to-head coverage, so water application is uniform. This is critical as almost all sod failures are due to improper coverage of the irrigation system.
  • Butt edges and ends fit tightly against each other. This prevents drying out of the seams.
  • Stagger strips as though laying bricks.
  • Where needed, trim sod with a sharp knife or machete.

After Laying the Sod

  • We cannot stress the proper watering program too much.
  • Stay off your new sod for at least 14 days.
  • Mow after two weeks with your mower set at the highest cutting height to reduce scalping. Never mow off more than 1/3 the height of the grass. If you have planted the sod in the shade, mow it very little and let it grow taller than the rest of your lawn so that it can get as much sunlight as possible.
  • Fertilize your sod three times per year. Spring, Summer, Fall
  • Control your pets. Urine spots and “footprinting” on soft, soggy sod may cause permanent problems.

Troubleshooting Hints Chinch Bugs – Chinch bugs work by sucking the plant juices. Dead areas on the lawn during the summer usually indicate chinch bugs. Use Diazinon or Dursban granules to rid your lawn of chinch bugs; follow the directions on the label. Bluish gray areas appearing on the lawn – These are spots that have wilted because they are not getting as much water as the adjacent areas. Soak with a garden hose until you can adjust your sprinkler system for better coverage (adding a head, etc.). Sod not rooting – Within 10 days, your sod should have many roots emerging; if not, check your watering. NOTE: Sod in the shade will root very slowly, if at all. Most turfgrass sods require 4 to 5 hours of full sun or an entire day of filtered light to root successfully and become established. Sodding in shady areas is not recommended. If you do plan to sod in a shady area, do it when the grass is dormant in the late fall and winter. Brown spots – These can be caused by pets, dry spots, areas that are not rooting, or possibly fungus. About 95% of the time, when you see a brown spot, it is due to a lack of water. Check by pushing a screwdriver into the ground where the sod is green and then into the brown spot. If it is harder to push into the brown spot, you will know it is simply dry.

Grass Pallets
Grass Pallets (450 sq. ft. or 50 sq. yds)$195/pallet or $2.50 for 16″ x 24″ square $110.00 1/2 pallet
Banged Material
Mulch and Mixes$5.00 Bag
Assorted Rock$18.00 / $40.00 Bag

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